To see video of our trip to Matera and Puglia, check out my highlight on Instagram.

To purchase a comprehensive and interactive version of this guide click here!

Located in the little known Basilicata province of Italy, it is nestled between Campagna and Puglia. Matera itself is the third oldest city in the world, coming after Aleppo and Jericho.

Matera is characterized by the rocky outcrop that it is both built on and in. Many of the buildings include some kind of cave dwelling dug directly into the rock. Churches, shops, cisterns, and dwellings are all buried deep into the earth, both out of necessity and ingenuity. Going subterranean helps to regulate the temperature inside and reduces the need to transport building materials. Many of these cave dwellings were inhabited until the 1950’s, when they had to be evacuated due to poor living conditions. Since then they have been refurbished into museums, shops, and hotels with modern infrastructure.

Now Matera sits as an incredible living museum to allow your imagination to run wild trying to imagine what it would have been like to live there many millennia ago.

Note: Between the hills and the slick rock, this is not the most accessible location. If you have very small children or have mobility issues, I recommend staying on the Northern area near the museums as it is more flat there. There are some golf cart type tours that you can take advantage of to see the rockier parts. We went on a rainy weekend and my 5 year old slipped on the slick rock walkway a couple times over the weekend.

Getting Here

Matera is a location best reached by car. About a 2.5 hour drive from Naples it is definitely out of the way. Most of the Sassi area of Matera is a pedestrian zone with very limited vehicle access, so make sure that you speak to your hotel for the best option for unloading and parking.

It is even further by train, taking 4 hours from Napoli Centrale, but it can be done. It is much closer to Bari, so if you happen to be there for a cruise this would be a great day or weekend trip to add on.

Matera Centrale railway station

Stay

19.52 Matera – This is where we stayed. It is a boutique hotel with only a few rooms, but they are cave rooms and very beautifully done. It did not feel too dark and dreary at all but the stonework is stunning.

Aquatio Cave Luxury Hotel & Spa – This was the runner up, and definitely where I would stay if I were here without kids. They look like they have pretty good sized rooms to allow for families.

Sax Barisano di Montemurro Aldo

Eat

Be sure to try some stracciatella with peperoni cruschi, the local dried, crushed peppers.

Il Rusticone

Kapunto ristorante – A more modern restaurant within one of the caves, this is a lovely food haven with great drinks as well.

Osteria al Casale

La Grotta nei Sassi

Another little grotto restaurant, this space can accommodate many people. It is right across from Hotel 1952.

19^buca – Restaurant with cistern

Regiacorte – L’eccellenza del Territorio

Peperoncino

Do:

Museums

Palazzo Lanfranchi – A great collection of art, both old and contemporary, featuring a variety of subjects including religious art and daily medieval life up to modern day. They were offering a deal for a few other museums as well, all of which were lovely.

Musei nazionali di Matera – Sede Ridola – This archeological museum was one of the highlights of our trip. Did you know that Matera at one time was underwater? The discovery of a whale skeleton fossilized in the rock is proof of that. This museum also has a recreation of what a primitive hut would have looked like AND a portion of the museum where people can touch 3D printed recreations of some of the artifacts found. A great choice for kids!

Museo Nazionale di Matera – Ex Ospedale San Rocco – A small museum which features artifacts found in some of the cave dwellings from the middle ages, including religious and noble decorative clothing and articles, as well as things that the average peasant would have used. The highlight for kids is the library, which includes books in Italian and English.

Historic and Religious Sites

Parco Regionale della Murgia Materana – Opposite the ravine with view of Matera, if you are interested in hiking this is a great starting point.

Sassi di Matera – The older, more hilly part of Matera that includes many caves.

Belvedere di Piazza Giovanni Pascoli – Cool piazza and view, especially at sunset.

Crypt of Original Sin

Chiesa del Purgatorio – Slightly underwhelming given the name, this church is adorned with skulls carved and tiled in the decoration.

Palombaro lungo – One of the larger city cisterns, this reservoir offers tours during the high season. There is also an incredible view of the town opposite the entrance courtyard.

Chiesa di Santa Lucia alle Malve – One of the older rock churches in Matera. When we were there they had a deal for 3 churches/museums. This is worth a visit.

Church of Saint Mary of Idris – This church is the one that can be seen throughout the city; the church at the top of the peak with the cross on top. It is worth the walk up the hill for the view and the church tour.

Casa Grotta nei Sassi di Matera – One of the museums featuring peasant live in the cave dwellings.

Shops and Artisans

Arte Decorativa di Maristella Darretta – If you happen to see their public art display of what looks like a sculpture of matera carved out of tufo, this is where you will find their shop.

Materia – Laboratorio di Arte Orafa e Lignea – A cute jewelry shop

Mancini Timbri del Pane – At first this shop appears to be full of knick knacks, but upon closer inspection you will find a selection of quirky art and handcrafted items, including customizable hand carved wooden bread stamps.

Prodotti Tipici – As the name suggests, they sell typical products from the area, including peperoni cruschi the dried, crushed peppers from the region.

For all this information in one convenient location, consider buying my Thatch travel guide for Matera. It has all the same information plus an interactive map with websites, additional pictures, contact information, booking links and hours all in one spot. Purchases of my guides help me continue to bring great content on new and exciting locations, so please consider a purchase.